Fashion and music have always shared a symbiotic relationship, intertwined in their cultural significance and offering us tools for creativity and self-expression. Fashion from the 1970s, 80s, and 90s has left major imprints on our culture alongside the music of those eras. Over time, distinctive fashion and music trends from the past resurface, are reinvented, and re-inspire us, captivating contemporary audiences and influencing current music, culture, and style. This interplay between past and present allows us to relive memories and blend our personal narratives with the ever-evolving tapestry of history.
At the beginning of the COVID-19 pandemic I decided to create an Instagram account dedicated to my dad, Jay Blakesberg, a music photographer, whose exhibition RetroBlakesberg: The Music Never Stopped is on view at The CJM. As I sifted through his archive, I quickly noticed that while there was never any overt emphasis on fashion in his work, my dad’s photographs showed how the worlds of fashion and music blended over eras, highlighting their inextricable relationship. I decided to highlight the parallels between the two, showcasing how style choices mirrored the evolving spirit of each era.
RetroBlakesberg aims to transport viewers to another time and offer a chance to relive past moments through Jay’s lens. The images below, ranging from the 1970s to the 1990s, highlight how fashion and music have evolved together, and might give viewers a sense of inspiration rooted in their past or spark an idea for the future.
Jay’s photographs of his friends in high school capture the day-to-day fashion of suburbia and showcase the aesthetic common across many parts of America at the time. 70s fashion was largely inspired by TV shows and print publications, and is now resurfacing amidst a resurgence of 70s suburban life in TV shows like The Kids Are Alright and the reboot of The Wonder Years.
Meanwhile, in the music industry, the 1970s witnessed a vibrant fusion of music, culture, and fashion, characterized by a focus on individuality and authenticity. Musicians like David Bowie, the Rolling Stones, and Led Zeppelin charmed audiences with both their innovative sound and their daring fashion choices. The androgynous glam-rock style, exemplified by Bowie's flamboyant outfits and gender-nonconforming aesthetic, challenged societal norms and became an emblem of self-expression. The disco era brought forth glittering ensembles, platform shoes, and extravagant outfits, creating an atmosphere of hedonism and liberation. Today, these iconic 70s looks are experiencing a revival, captivating new generations through artists like Bruno Mars and Janelle Monáe, who pay homage to this era through both their music and fashion choices.
By the early 1980s, thirteen years after the Summer of Love, Jay was starting to document the modern-day hippie tribe. While most of America had moved past the “hippie fashion” of the late 1960s and early 1970s, it was still relevant for a small subculture of free-loving, mind-expanding Deadheads that Jay was quickly immersing himself in. Many have commented that some of these 1980s Grateful Dead shots could have been captured in either the 70s, 90s, or even today. These photos illustrate how younger generations have long been able to reshape and create looks from styles of the past.
By the late 1980s, Jay had begun shooting professional assignments for magazines, leading him away from his hippie roots. He found his camera pointed in the direction of what was more mainstream at the time—the punk/goth era and the beginnings of “grunge.” The late 1980s started to introduce a seismic shift in fashion, fueled by boldness and excess. This era saw the rise of pop music icons like Madonna and Michael Jackson, and of punk artists like Fugazi and The Ramones.
The 90s witnessed a complete shift from hairbands and shoulder pads—trends that never made it into Jay’s portfolio—to a more organic, “rougher” grunge/punk minimalism, and a more counter-cultural aesthetic. Alternative rock, spearheaded by bands like Nirvana and Soundgarden, emerged as a powerful voice of disillusioned youth. The fashion of the 90s mirrored this sentiment, embracing a laid-back, anti-establishment style. Oversized flannel shirts, ripped jeans, Doc Martens, and minimalist designs became emblematic of the grunge movement. The fusion of music and fashion during this period gave birth to a distinctive subculture that rejected mainstream ideals, moving towards a more DIY culture and lifestyle. Today, young artists like Maggie Rogers and Phoebe Bridgers seamlessly incorporate 90s fashion elements into their style, drawing from its authenticity, individualism, and non-conformist ethos.
Fashion provides both a tangible and symbolic connection between generations, each era influencing the next. Jay’s images and RetroBlakesberg demonstrate how fashion and music of the past transcend time, influencing how we dress and experience both music and culture today. These photos and the musical moments and fashion trends they capture remind us of the enduring appeal of certain styles, ideas, and attitudes about ourselves and the world around us. Through the RetroBlakesberg project, my goal is to connect people to the ephemeral moments of our past and inspire younger generations to embrace their moments as they continue to express themselves through aesthetic and style.
Ricki Blakesberg is a New York–based art photographer, photo archivist, and photography curator. Blakesberg's photographic work explores the adventures and angles of her everyday life and frequent travels, documenting unique life moments. She has served as co-curator for several photo books including Tomorrow Sky images by Neal Casal and RetroBlakesberg: The Film Archives Volume One. She recently curated two museum exhibitions of her father's photography for The Contemporary Jewish Museum in San Francisco, CA and the Morris Museum (New Jersey’s only Smithsonian Affiliate) in Morristown, NJ. Along with her curatorial work, Blakesberg is the co-founder of Retro Photo Archive, an archival photography collection inspired by preserving the art of storytelling through imagery. Learn more about Ricki and her work.
Travel through some of the most electrifying moments in music history through the lens of Bay Area–based photographer Jay Blakesberg. RetroBlakesberg: The Music Never Stopped presents photographs of legendary musicians that reveal the evolution of San Francisco’s unique music culture and its wide-reaching influence. Featuring images of the Grateful Dead, Joni Mitchell, Tracy Chapman, Neil Young, Soundgarden, Carlos Santana, and many more alongside original tickets stubs, press passes, and other ephemera, this exhibition invites visitors to experience a visual history of the sounds and stories that have shaped the Bay Area and beyond.